Orian Bertone’s silver medal and the fiasco in broadcasting the event

Silver Medal Orian Burton, 4th Place Paul Geneft, US Women’s and Japanese Men’s Dominance: Here is a summary of the World Cup weekend in Seoul marked by another failure in terms of broadcasting the event.


Natalia Grossman. © Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC

Let’s start by mentioning the absence of a number of headlines, perhaps they made sure to devote themselves a little to rock before returning to resin to prepare for the Paris Olympics, but perhaps that was also calmed by the media’s impoverishment of events, due to the famous paid broadcast. Which makes the climb invisible on the network at the moment…

Once she won the first stage in Meiringen, Janja Garnbret had already announced the color by ending her rock season, but very young dad Adam Ondra appears to be making – not officially – the same decision: he didn’t show up this weekend (just like in Meiringen). ) and was also not committed on the following two dates at the end of May in Salt Lake City.

What can we finally remember from a rainy (and freezing!) Korean weekend? The two world speed records, men’s and women’s, broke, Orianne Bertone in silver, Paul Jenft at the foot of the podium and a new generation of the French team back in time.

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Alexandra Miroslav and Kiromal Katepin: new world records! © Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC

Two world records, back to back

The Korean weekend started off strong with the women’s and men’s speed records breaking. And so Poland’s Alexandra Miroslow, the top candidate, broke her previous world record for last year, lowering it by 0.2 seconds (which is huge!) to 6.64 seconds.

In the aftermath, the Indonesian machines took off: Kiromal Katipin broke the previous record set by his compatriot, Federic Leonardo, to establish the new world reference in 5.17 seconds, or three hundred better. In a few years, we’ve gone from 5.48 seconds (Iran’s Reza Alipurchinazandefar record in 2017) to this new time which indicates that the 5 second bar isn’t far away…although in any case, the Indonesians have them in the top three. ..

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The results of the French were out of 35 participants

Capucine Viglione, 6 (best time 7.67sec)

Aurelia Sarrison, 14 (best time 7.23 seconds)

Lison Gautron, 16 (best time 8.23 ​​seconds)

Victoire Andrier, 32 (best time 11.06s)

The results of the French were out of 38 participants

Guillaume Moreau, 7 years old (best time in 5.79 seconds)

Pierre Rebriend, 15 (best time: 5.94 s)

Yan Le Clerc de Lannoy, 23 (best time 6.36sec)

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Orian Burton | © Dimitris Tosidis / IFSC

Orian Burton infiltrates the American system

If, on the first two rocks, a feud between Natalia Grossman and Orian, the American has distanced herself from the young Frenchwoman in the last two passages as she shows an excellent horizon at deciphering problems while relying on sheer strength far superior to that of any other girl. The evidence is at the end of block 3 that it does nothing before performing the final move consistently, throwing all the others, with more or less success… the openings which were a big problem for their competitors.

In Ganga’s absence, the one who has been in ambush – and not hiding – for some time seems to have established herself as the new head of the global circle. In this competition no block, at every stage, will resist the American…

Orien finished an excellent second place by making a difference on the first rock that didn’t match French-American Brooke Raboteau. Even with this complete predicament on this rock (not even the affected area!), Brock was still able to climb to the third step.

So the tune seems set for the rest of the season among these three girls, but we still have to count on Serbian Stasa Gejo gaining momentum with each competition and this time finishing at the foot of the podium. He’ll be ready to come and grab places at the slightest mistake from this leading trio. However, her performance still needs to be mentioned as she is the only competitor in her country and thus does not benefit from the structures and training staff as her competitors can do, with her father serving as a coach and mentor.

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The results of the French were out of 51 participants

Orian Burton, 2

Fluffy Kohut, 9

Fanny Gibert, 22

Clotilde Maureen, 24

Mailys Piazzalunga, 31

Zelia Avisu, 39

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Paul Geneft. © Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC

Paul Geneft joins the “Japan Championship”

Among the men, young Frenchman Paul Geneft was so lonely in the middle of the Japanese group that he squatted in the final by involving no fewer than five climbers out of the six chosen. It seems that the Japanese reservoir of strong climbers is completely inexhaustible and in the future it will be necessary to take good care of the Keta Dohi with unusual climbing and size compared to its compatriots. He certainly finished sixth, and thus last, in the final, but he is improving since he was ninth in Meiringen and his calm and efficient climb was so much fun to watch…

The winner of the weekend is none other than Kokoro Fuji, the rock world champion, ahead of Tomoa Narasaki. The third is Yoshiyuki Ogata while Paul Jenft finished at the foot of the podium. However, it is very difficult to comment on his climb because on the last couple of rocks his lanes fell through the cracks of the remodeling (thank you Eurosport…).

Paul Jenft’s performance at the start of the rock season, both in terms of score (fourth in two stages!) and method (no obvious weak point versus the best in the ring), is mind-blowing, especially when knowing that our tricolor star is only 18 years old, and that His strong discipline is supposed to be the hardest!

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The results of the French were out of 52 participants

Paul Geneft, 4

Magdy Shalek, 7

Sam Dove, 17

Adrian Lemaire, 23

Manu Cornu, 27

Red card to the new duo IFSC / Eurosport

Without reference to paid broadcast skew, it would be necessary that the replays are at least integrated and of good quality and that climbers’ trails are preferred over ad spots. If the broadcast of the women’s event is universally watchable and understandable, what a mess for the men’s final! In addition to some shaky camera shots, you had to wait to see the rankings because in the last two blocks (ie half the competition), the first four climbers fell completely through the viewing cracks, including, among other things, a climb by Paul Jenft. Same for the start of the event that was broadcast only after the first competitors had passed!

Already, at the previous event in Meiringen, the channel completely reversed the links between the thumbnails of the sports display on the dashboard and the actual broadcast. By clicking Climb we found electric Formula 1 cars… Very nice cars, very eco-friendly, though.

From there to believe that Eurosport does not make fun of climbing and prefers to favor its advertisers, there is only one step … One ad was interesting since the highlight of the VPN (Virtual Private Network / Réseau Virtual Private Network) that allows, let us remember, to circumvent viewing restrictions, Applicable only to Europe, by actually residing in other regions of the world and thus accessing free broadcasts via the IFSC YouTube channel.

Can all athletes organize a theater boycott in protest of this situation, of which they are the first victims? The question must be asked. If they could unite in such a decision: no escalation = no competition = no replay. Show only “revolutionary” posters for A free streaming It doesn’t appear to be enough at the moment to make the IFSC back off.

This is not the first charlatan from the International Federation this season. We remember in particular the modifications that took place during the competition (!) to the regulations at the Meiringen event to finally return to the original, and in this competition, to open, suddenly, in the middle of the night, access to a free semi-final viewing.

This gives the impression that the “intermediate” phases of our sport are very fast and that the current IFSC-managed escalation is not yet ready to compete with the more popular sports. At the expense of climbers clearly…

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